Remove the lens and the old school fixture by
removing the three bolts holding it on place

Using the included self tapping bolt, thread it in two of the existing holes (the upper two holes) with a socket and ratchet. Using a fair amount of force with both hands on the ratchet, thread the new bolt in to the holes to resize the bolt home from metric threads to 1/4 SAE threads.

Once new threads have been cut, take the LiteDOT mounting botls and fully thread them in to the holes to ensure the threads are ready to accept the new bolts. if you encoutner any resistance, rethread with the self taping bolt to clean up the threads.

Remove the lens and the old school fixture by
removing the three bolts holding it on place

Gently pull the wire harness up through the hole. This proved to be a major challenge because there was some foam tape wrapped around the plug. The charcoal canister is located behind the right tail light, which makes for only about 3/4 - 1" of clearance between it and the tub.

To get this far, I temporarily resecured the tail light and pulled the harness out through the bottom and removed the foam tape from around the plug. Next I removed the OEM light and was able to getthe plug to pull through the gap between the tub and charcoal canister and then out the hole.

I placed the two lights side by side

Then I cut the harness plug off the OEM tail light

Next step is to strip the wires and place the
solder shrink splices on the wires.

Slide the shrink splices over the wire first. Use a method of splicing commonly referred to as an "audio twist" (twist the ends together to perfom a straight splice).

Heat up the shrink splice up with a heatgun until the solder completely flows through the splice and the tubing melts and seals up at each end.

After I spliced the wires I installed some split loom over the harness.

Reconnect the plug and feed the wire down through the hole.

I used a piece of electrical tape to seal off the unused upper mounting hole for the OEM tail lights, which isn't use for the LiteDOTs

The kit includes a self tapping SAE
bolt used to reform the threaded holes.

Use a socket and ratchet to thread the bolt in to the lower two holes. Apply plenty of pressure to ensure the bolt bites in and starts cutting new threads, otherwise you will simply strip out the hole.

When threading it in, it will reform the threads to accept the SAE threaded bolts, which are ever so slighty larger than the metric bolts of the OEM tail lights.

Prior to mounting the LiteDOTs, take the mounting screws and thread them in to the holes to ensure they thread in OK.

This is a view from down below looking up in to the area behind the right side tail light. There's a small metal tab/bracket right below the charcoal canister that I attached the grounding clip to.

The large black area in the upper right of photo is the plastic flap that keep muds and debris out of the area where the wiring and charcoal canister reside.

DONE!

Don't forget to attach the reflective tape included with the kit to the back of the Jeep. Most people attach it to the rear lower corner of the tub, wrapping it around the corner.

Some sort of reflective material is
required in the US to meet FMVSS 108

What is FMVSS 108? It's the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard that outlines lighting and reflective requirements for vehicles and trailers.

Canada has a similar regulation.

Place some tap over the license plate mount, hold the LieDOT in position and trace around it to mark where the plate mount needs to be trimmed.

Side marker lights

PlateLITE License plate light.

Backup lights

Tail lights on